“Vitamin C is a necessary component for many aspects of skin health,” says New York dermatologist Rachel Nazarian, MD. “It’s useful in maintaining healthy collagen fibers, but can also be used topically for various skin benefits because it is a wonderful antioxidant.” This offers it the power to guard pores and skin from free-radical harm. “Aside from improving the appearance of wrinkles, pores and fine lines, it can also improve pigmentation and sun damage,” Dr. Nazarian provides. “That’s why it’s so loved.”
Nevertheless, there are numerous various kinds of vitamin C accessible in skin-care merchandise at present. And as Dr. Nazarian factors out, this may make it a bit complicated to grasp which is superior or the proper selection on your pores and skin. “Some are more potent; others are less potent and need to be converted in the skin,” she explains. “Some work at a lower pH; some at a higher pH. Then there are types that love oil, while others love water. And lastly, some are more stable or irritating than others.” Right here, we faucet prime consultants within the discipline to share their perception on the huge and diversified world of vitamin C derivatives.
Featured Consultants: Ascorbic Acid: The Pure Type of Vitamin C
Ascorbic acid (or L-ascorbic acid) is the pure, water-soluble type of vitamin C, and probably the most researched and examined type of vitamin C. “It is not a derivative and does not need to be converted or modified for the body and skin to use it as a nutrient or antioxidant,” explains beauty chemist Stephen Alain Ko, founding father of Poems From the Lab.
“Ascorbic acid is proven to do three main things,” says beauty chemist Ron Robinson, founding father of BeautyStat Skincare. “First, it works as a powerful antioxidant. Second, it helps stimulate collagen, which reduces the look of lines and wrinkles and firms skin. Third, it helps prevent the overproduction of melanin, which helps even out skin tone and fade hyperpigmentation.”
Nevertheless, regardless of its many advantages, ascorbic acid is a really unstable ingredient. “This means it oxidizes quickly when exposed to light, water or air,” says Robinson. In case you’ve ever had a vitamin C serum that turned brown over time, that is why. Robinson additionally factors out that when ascorbic acid is used on the efficient ranges of 10 to twenty p.c (analysis reveals that vitamin C requires a focus of at the very least 5 p.c to work), it may be irritating to these with delicate pores and skin. “This is why many derivatives of vitamin C have come to market,” he explains. “Some are more stable than the pure form and gentler on the skin, but may not be as effective.”
The place to Discover It:
BeautyStat’s beloved Common C Pores and skin Refiner ($85) has developed a cult following since its launch. “It uses 20-percent pure, patented stable ascorbic acid, so it does not oxidize,” says Robinson. “It’s also clinically tested to reduce lines and wrinkles, firm and tighten skin, visibly fade hyperpigmentation and reduce the look of pores.”
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The Distinction Between Oil-Soluble and Water-Soluble Vitamin C
Every type of vitamin C is both oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble elements require an oil-based supply system, whereas water-soluble elements want a water-based method. Oil-soluble vitamin C “neutralizes the types of free radicals that damage skin’s lipids, such as ceramides and cholesterol,” explains Paula Begoun, founding father of Paula’s Selection Skincare. “This is primarily how it works as an antioxidant. Water-soluble ascorbic acid helps neutralize other types of free radicals before they get too far past skin’s surface.”
Begoun says oil-soluble ascorbic acid may penetrate additional into pores and skin. “It works with vitamin E that’s naturally in our skin or in skin-care products to target skin’s underlying support system via a different pathway than water-soluble ascorbic acid,” she explains. Nevertheless, with regards to which one—water or oil—is simpler, Ko says we don’t actually know. “The scientific literature on this is very scant.”
8 Varieties of Vitamin C Utilized in Pores and skin Care Immediately Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
“This is a derivative of ascorbic acid where an ethyl group is bound to ascorbic acid,” explains Ko. “This slightly increases stability in comparison to ascorbic acid. There’s some cell and animal data to show that it is converted back into ascorbic acid by the skin, and potentially provides skin benefits.” Robinson provides that this kind of vitamin C (aka 3-O-ethyl ascorbate) is each water- and oil-soluble.
Begoun provides, “As a modified and more stable version of pure vitamin C, ethyl ascorbic acid must be converted to vitamin C within skin by sodium-dependent proteins. This process within skin’s surface layers helps ensure skin benefits. Due to the conversion to pure vitamin C being a slower process, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is considered more tolerable.”
The place to Discover It:
Alpha-H Vitamin C Serum with 10% Ethyl Ascorbic Acid ($65) is fast to soak up and nice for uninteresting pores and skin. The addition of this kind of vitamin C helps shield pores and skin from environmental aggressors. We love the citrusy scent as effectively.
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Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD)
Some consultants have referred to this ingredient as “supercharged vitamin C” as a result of it’s extremely lively. “Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is an oil-soluble derivative of ascorbic acid where four lipids are attached to the ascorbic acid,” Ko explains. Dr. Nazarian says it’s used extra typically in skincare now as a result of “it’s much more stable and less likely to irritate skin.” In case you have dry or delicate pores and skin, pure ascorbic acid will be an excessive amount of. “For these skin types, it’s imperative that they use a more stabilized and less-irritating version of vitamin C like this one.”
Some researchers theorize that THD has a better affinity for pores and skin, Begoun notes. “This is because its fatty acid component helps aid penetration. It also pairs well with other forms of vitamin C, vitamin E, green tea and retinol for enhanced effectiveness and anti-aging benefits. Additionally, it can be used in water-based formulas, but must be combined with silicones or oils for ideal bioavailability.”
The place to Discover It:
We love the Paula’s Selection 25% Vitamin C + Glutathione Scientific Serum ($62), which accommodates tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to brighten and agency with out irritation. It additionally accommodates ascorbyl glucoside (extra on this spinoff under).
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Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ko says ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble spinoff of ascorbic acid the place palmitic acid is certain to the ascorbic acid. “The stability is like ascorbic acid, but there is little human evidence that it provides benefits greater than ascorbic acid.”
In reality, he notes that “one skin cell study found that ascorbyl palmitate increased lipid peroxidation [the oxidative degradation of lipids] in response to UVB exposure. While that is a negative effect, it hasn’t been definitively proven to occur in human skin in a normal use case. However, its use in cosmetic formulations is now less popular.”
Though ascorbyl palmitate has antioxidant advantages for pores and skin, Begoun says analysis has proven it doesn’t penetrate in addition to ascorbic acid. “Additionally, its conversion to vitamin C isn’t as efficient as other forms, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. However, research has shown that a modified form of this ingredient, known as trisodium ascorbyl-6 palmitate 2-phosphate, overcomes this conversion issue.”
The place to Discover It:
A cult-classic with rave critiques, Jan Marini Pores and skin Analysis C-Esta Face Serum ($129) combines ascorbyl palmitate with DMAE and hyaluronic acid. Not solely does it assist scale back the looks of effective strains and wrinkles and uneven pores and skin texture, however it additionally protects from free radicals.
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Sodium Ascorbate and Calcium Ascorbate
“Sodium ascorbate is the salt formed when ascorbic acid is combined with a base like sodium hydroxide or sodium bicarbonate,” explains Ko. “Once dissolved, a proportion of it will dissolve and become ascorbic acid, depending on the solution pH. Calcium ascorbate is like sodium ascorbate in that it is a salt, but it is formed when combined with a calcium containing base like calcium bicarbonate. This is more often used in food and supplements to provide calcium, as well as ascorbic acid.” Each of those are water-soluble derivatives, provides Robinson.
With calcium ascorbate particularly, you might even see it known as ester-C in skincare as effectively. Based on Begoun, each of those elements are secure types of vitamin C that assist even pores and skin tone and supply antioxidant advantages.
The place to Discover It:
Alastin C-RADICAL Protection Antioxidant Serum ($192) accommodates sodium ascorbate in a proprietary, encapsulated type. This retains it from irritating the pores and skin because it helps to defend towards free-radical harm and assist elastin conservation.
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Ascorbyl Glucoside
“This is a stable, water-soluble derivative of vitamin C combined with the sugar glucose,” says Robinson. “It might be the best of the derivatives to show efficacy,” says Robinson. Begoun provides that “the glucose is derived from a natural starch source, while the vitamin C portion is synthetic. When properly formulated and absorbed into skin, it breaks down to ascorbic acid. Once absorbed, its breakdown to vitamin C is gradual, creating what’s known as a reservoir effect within skin. This leads to longer-lasting benefits.”
Begoun additionally factors out that ascorbyl glucoside is usually known as AA2G. “Research on ascorbyl glucoside’s ability to improve uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation is encouraging. But, it’s not as extensive when compared with the decades of research amassed for ascorbic acid. However, ascorbyl glucoside plus niacinamide is a viable combination to consider, and several skin-care products pair these ingredients.”
The place to Discover It:
The Abnormal Ascorbyl Glucoside Answer 12% Serum ($15) is just not solely a cut price, but in addition an efficient brightener. It’s light-weight and a fantastic possibility for anybody involved with uneven tone or dullness, or these in search of antioxidant assist.
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Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
“Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) are water-soluble derivatives of ascorbic acid where the ascorbic acid has been bound to a phosphate group,” Ko explains. The distinction is the counterion used: magnesium or sodium. Each are claimed to be extra secure than ascorbic acid, however the information is scant.”
Begoun says that in contrast to different water-soluble types of vitamin C, MAP can be lipophilic, or oil-loving. “This improves penetration into skin, but how well this form converts to ascorbic acid within skin is up for debate. MAP is considered one of the most hydrating forms of vitamin C. This is because of its oil-loving nature and ability to promote hydration deeper in skin when compared to ascorbic acid.”
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate works in each water- and oil-based formulation with out breaking down, Begoun says. One research in contrast a 5-percent focus with the identical quantity of ascorbic acid. Outcomes confirmed an equal wrinkle-smoothing and elasticity-increasing profit to pores and skin across the eyes. “Amounts above 3 percent are considered necessary to target discoloration. This is similar to the range research has shown ascorbic acid works within to target this concern.”
The place to Discover It:
Naturium Vitamin C Complicated Serum ($21) combines sodium ascorbyl phosphate with ascorbic acid and a bioactive fruit mix. Layer this together with your sunscreen for double-duty protection towards dangerous environmental stressors. In a medical research, the serum improved the looks of effective strains and wrinkles in simply 4 weeks.
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Which varieties of vitamin C are finest for these with acne-prone pores and skin?
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) are sometimes marketed as the most effective ascorbic acid derivatives for acne-prone pores and skin, says Ko. “However, these suggestions are based on one very small study that hasn’t been replicated. It also highlights the confusion between statistically significant and clinically relevant. Participants using a sodium ascorbyl phosphate lotion saw a statistically significant reduction in acne. This amounted to an average reduction of 1 inflammatory acne lesion and 3 non-inflammatory acne lesions after 12 weeks compared to placebo. I don’t think many people would consider a potential reduction of one pimple and a few blackheads/whiteheads after 12 weeks an effective acne treatment.” Clearly, extra research are wanted right here.
Anecdotally, there are numerous optimistic critiques from folks with acne-prone pores and skin utilizing merchandise that comprise SAP. “This form of vitamin C may play a special role in reducing the likelihood of blemishes. This is because its soothing action helps quell an of oil-based saccharide that can irritate skin,” provides Begoun. “However, research on this matter was not comparative, meaning we don’t know how a range of other forms of vitamin C would’ve fared.” Dr. Nazarian recommends TruSkin Vitamin C Tremendous Serum+ ($30) for her sufferers with acne-prone pores and skin, but in addition all pores and skin varieties. “It uses sodium ascorbyl phosphate, a derivative that is stable and gentle. It also includes retinol. I find vitamin A derivatives useful for acne-prone patients because they can decrease the dark marks and spots acne can leave behind.”
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